![]() There are different retaining mechanisms for the break action (how many posts are there on the frame? Safety latch for action?) transfer bar ignition systems, the trigger type safety on a Glock will be found in revolvers from the 1920s, they were QUICK to reload, some were DAO, some double/single, etc.Īs far as quality- Iver Johnson was in business for 100 years. It is an unfolding of firearms technology as the years progress. Spend some time researching those older guns, and they will surprise you. Accurate enough for 25-30 ft, which was the typically indoor shooting gallery. 32 S&W should be safe IF the gun is in good working order.38 S&W, pressures of smokeless is too high for BP guns. If you reload, a good gallery load can be assembled with a light powder charge and a single pellet of size 0 buckshot. I have a couple from the 1920s I shoot- but DO check timing and cylinder lockup at full cock- many are free wheeling when not cocked. Rough rule of thumb- If caliber is marked on the SIDE of the barrel, is a smokeless gun. 32 S&W ammo still follows BP pressures.38 S&W does NOT- an it is important to keep smokeless loads out of BP guns. Very good reference, well worth the money. If you think you might like these, invest in a copy of Iver Johnson Arms & Cycle Works (paperback) by the late Mr. You CAN still find some parts for these at Numrich. The top break actions were not as strong as solid frame, but were adequate for the cartridges they were made for. And that MAY have been a long time ago, and guns may have worn, rusted, corroded, etc. These were good quality guns (not super duper golly gee, just good guns) WHEN they were made. Between Iver and H&R, they made enuff revolvers to start their own arms race. ![]()
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